From Barbenheimer to Napoleon, hats became cinema's must-have accessory in 2023
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The American ideal
When the news hit of the simultaneous theatrical releases for two of the most anticipated films of the year (BarbieandOppenheimer), the glaring aesthetic differences between the pair were quickly whipped up into fan posters. The gauche pink of Barbie clashed with the dark hues of Oppenheimer, while the titular roles (Margot Robbie and Cillian Murphy) faced each other in a stand-off.
However, despite the duo’s tonal differences, Barbenheimer actually shared much more than just a release date. We may joke that the two American cultural figures both appreciate a good pants-suit, and understand the power of a well-placed hat, but Barbenheimer’s attention to accessories is not as shallow as it first appears. Image is an essential element of the American ideal, which both directors, Greta Gerwig and Christopher Nolan, took into consideration.
Once J. Robert Oppenheimer’s project to build the atomic bomb is well under way, he becomes the sheriff of his own little town of scientists. With a wide brim pork pie hat and a silver buckled belt, he curates an outfit that becomes a uniform, making the classic image, fusing the man and the myth. Oppenheimer shows the Father of the Atomic Bomb living out his American dream as he has managed to combine his love for his ranch and his scientific career.
Meanwhile, when Barbie leaves Barbie Land to find out why she has “impending thoughts of death” and flat fleet, she quickly changes into a fringed bedazzled cowboy outfit complete with a pink cowboy hat. Barbie is excited to meet humanity and be thanked by girls everywhere for all the good work she has done, so why wouldn’t she choose an outfit that is both classically her and demonstrates her American values. For both Barbie and Oppenheimer, the wardrobe choice is much more than just clothing. From top to toe their looks symbolize the values they hold dear and their inherent patriotism, which is questioned relentlessly in both movies.
Cowboy hats are currently having a revival, not only due to Barbie, but a wide variety of cultural moments. Beyonce is the latest pop star (from Madonna to Lil Nas X) to don the cowboy hat for the Renaissance album, making the accessory not only on trend in cinema but a necessary accompaniment to any gig. Historical figures are so often a nostalgic fusing of their greatest achievements and their most significant attributes. Perhaps much like Charlie Chaplin’s mustache and bowler hat, Beyonce’s image will be forever linked with a silver horse and a matching bejeweled cowboy hat.
We remember Napoleon for his military achievements (and failings) as well as his supposed short stature and of course his bicorne hat. In Ridley Scott’s latest film,Napoleon(Joaquin Phoenix) rarely takes his hat off - in fact, it’s a shock for audiences to discover his flattened and static hat hair. His dedication to France is demonstrated with his commitment to his military uniform even when his peers dress as civilians. Napoleon’s personal identity and patriotism are one.
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For the assassin, the key to being a successful killer is to “avoid being memorable”, which is why he wears white chinos, an ugly Hawaiian shirt, and tops the look off with a bucket hat. Culturally we love to romanticize violence, and we have done so through many of Fincher’s films. But by dressing his killer in a bucket hat and forgettable tourist apparel, the audience cannot see the assassin as a suave figure. Add to this his obsession with a band long past worship and penchant for a Maccies breakfast, The Killer becomes just like his audience, another shift worker who has a mundane, often boring job.
Billie is a culture and lifestyle writer with bylines in Dazed, i-D, and Little White Lies. Her writing often focuses on her main passion: horror. However, she regularly emerges from her terrifying comfort zone to write regular book reviews for The Big Issue as well as personal essays covering mental health and sexuality.
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